Secret Revealed

The last time I surfed the Cocoa Beach Pier, I was dreaming about the ideal shape for this place. It was that day when I shaped my 9'9 classic longboard in my head. I almost named the board something related to this spot, but decided at the last minute to just call it a Classic LB. 

Today was my first surf at the spot that inspired it. The shape worked like a dream. So much fun today. In conditions we normally won't bother with back home. But here, these waves are a blast.

Here, the bottom shape of the ocean (shallow forever) makes for a slow mushy wave with little power, compared to home (in an on-shore wind wave).

Here is what the sets looked like all morning